Effectiveness of Dermarollers Depend on Needle Size and Serum Formulation

For dermarolling therapy to be more effective, you need to use appropriate microneedle size and topical serum. Having said that, it is important for you to know when is a particular needle size used, for it to induce a stimulatory effect on the skin and what are the highly recommended topical serums that will enhance the effect of dermarolling therapy?

How to choose the best needle size for your dermarolling therapy?

There is lots of false information out there regarding how to use dermarolling therapy. Some says that for dermarolling to be effective, you need to use it daily for you to notice significant changes. Others give tips on how you can decide for the best needle size to treat your skin.

You have to be very meticulous when reading information like this because some of them are not true and may even cause more harm than good.  It is very important to keep in mind that it is not the frequency of microneedling that affects the success of the treatment. One of the very important factors is actually the microneedle size.

So, when do you use the specific needle size and how to choose the best one?


0.25 mm Microneedle

The 0.25 mm microneedle is effective for boosting skin care products for rapid skin absorption which is commonly known as transdermal drug delivery. If you want to reduce your wrinkles and skin lines, this is not the appropriate needle size to look for. The 0.25 mm microneedle cannot induce collagen growth. It can only thicken the epidermal layer which is a great way to enhance the effect of your favorite moisturizing cream and other skin care serums.

The good thing about 0.25 mm microneedle is that it cannot induce bleeding and it is generally not painful. Some even did not experience any pain. If you use it on a daily basis, it may trigger redness, irritation and dryness because it may cause loss of skin moisture. Some skin expert recommend using 0.25 mm every other day for a more enhance result.

But if you have a sensitive skin, thin skin or ethnic skin, it is best to consult first your dermatologist before using dermarollers. These skin types have different reactions when it comes to microneedling.

0.5 mm Microneedle

The 0.5 mm microneedle is best for reducing or removing scars, wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, and UV damage. It also has more added benefit for skin care absorption than 0.25 mm needle size. If you want to have a monthly dermaroller treatment, this is the ideal needle size to choose.

This needle size is also less painful compared with the longer microneedles. You may not even use need a numbing cream to ease the pain but you may have longer recovery time which usually takes a few days. Other common side effects are dryness, redness and peeling.

You may also experience minimal bleeding and several blood spots. The 0.5 mm microneedle has mild effect on stimulating collagen growth so you may need additional treatment, to see visible results.

0.75 mm to 1 mm microneedle

The 0.75 to 1 mm microneedles are effective in stimulating collagen growth. It can also help reduce hyperpigmentation and skin damage caused by excessive sun exposure. It is also effective in removing shallow and deep, scars, stretch marks, and wrinkles.

It can also stimulate more rapid absorption of topical serum. You will also have lesser rough skin texture and a smoother skin complexion. The drawback in using this needle size is that it has a longer recovery period which may require at least one week depending on the severity of the area treated.

You will also experience mild to moderate bleeding. You may also feel moderate pain which may require you to use numbing cream. If you are a beginner, you can safely use 0.75 to 1 mm microneedles. You may also use this needle size once in every four to six weeks.

Do not do more than two treatments per month because it may slow down the collagen formation which may cause more damage to your skin.

1.5 mm to 3 mm microneedle

1,5 mm to 3 mm microneedle size is used for severe stretch marks and scarring. It is also applicable to use in the body but not on the face. It is also used for treating burned scars. These microneedle sizes are very painful and may cause significant bleeding so you definitely need to use a numbing cream. It may take around six to eight weeks before your skin will have full recovery.


What is the Best Serum Formulation Perfect for Dermarolling Treatment?

Aside from using the appropriate needle size for your skin, choosing the right serum also help improve the outcome of dermarolling therapy. Studies have shown that combining serum with microneedling provide a more enhanced result. [1] There are many topical serums that you can try in the market including vitamin C serum, anti- aging creams, and many others.

Just make sure that before using any topical serum, you consult first with your dermatologist particularly if you have sensitive skin. There are some individuals who develop allergic skin reactions when using topical serum with microneedling. [2]

Nevertheless, dermarolling therapy is generally a safe and effective procedure with minimal side effects. Using the appropriate needle size and serum will further enhance the effectiveness of the device.


[1] G. Fabbrocini, 1 ,* V. De Vita, 1 N. Fardella, 1 F. Pastore, 1 M. C. Annunziata, 1 M. C. Mauriello, 1 A. Monfrecola, 1 and N. Cameli 2. (2011). Skin Needling to Enhance Depigmenting Serum Penetration in the Treatment of Melasma. Plast Surg Int.

[2] Soltani-Arabshahi R1, Wong JW2, Duffy KL1, Powell DL1. (2014). Facial allergic granulomatous reaction and systemic hypersensitivity associated with microneedle therapy for skin rejuvenation. JAMA Dermatol. , 68-72.

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